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THE SCIENCE BEHIND A NATURAL LOOKING TAN
Tanning drops should give the skin a natural sun-kissed glow, not an orange tint. When the colour looks unnatural, it usually comes down to the formula.
The final tone of your skin depends on how the active molecules interact with the outer layer of the skin. The type of molecules used, their concentration, and how they are combined determine whether the result appears natural or artificial.
To understand this, it helps to look at the underlying biological reaction.
THE MAILLARD REACTION: HOW TANNING DROPS WORK
Most self-tanning formulas rely on sugar-derived molecules that react with the outer layer of the skin. When these molecules are applied, they react with amino acids present in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin composed of dead keratinised cells. This interaction is known as the Maillard reaction. During this reaction sugars bind to amino groups in proteins and form brown pigments called melanoidins.
In simple terms, the tanning molecules bind to proteins in the outer skin layer and gradually create pigments that mimic the appearance of a natural tan. Visible colour typically starts to appear within 2 to 6 hours after application.
WHY SOME FORMULAS TURN ORANGE
Many self-tanning formulas rely primarily on a single active tanning molecule: dihydroxyacetone (DHA). DHA reacts rapidly with amino acids in the skin and quickly forms visible pigments. Because the pigments produced by DHA tend to have a reddish-brown tone, formulas that rely on DHA alone can sometimes develop a colour that appears overly warm.
When this reaction occurs too quickly or without balance in the formulation, the resulting tone can appear uneven or slightly orange on the skin. The final colour therefore does not depend only on the presence of DHA, but on how the entire formulation regulates and balances this reaction.
DHA AND ERYTHRULOSE: A MORE BALANCED APPROACH
At The Remedy Laboratories, we take a different formulation approach. Our Bronzing Drops contain two complementary tanning molecules in the highest concentrations. In this case, less is not more.
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and erythrulose are both sugar-derived tanning actives that react with amino acids in the stratum corneum through the Maillard reaction. However, once applied to the skin, these molecules behave differently.
DHA reacts relatively quickly and is responsible for the first visible colour. The pigments formed through DHA tend to develop a slightly reddish tone. Erythrulose reacts more slowly and develops colour more progressively. The pigments it forms tend to have a warmer, a softer golden-brown tone.
By combining both molecules, the different pigment tones balance each other. The result is more gradual pigment formation and a more even, natural looking tan.
In addition, the formula contains hyaluronic acid to support hydration and maintain skin comfort while the tan develops. This helps counterbalance the mild drying effect that can sometimes occur with DHA-based formulas.
It all comes from the right molecules, in the right balance, interacting with the biology of the skin.
